Recent Developments in Chinese Cosmetics Regulations

Recent reports by Chemlinked highlight significant changes in China’s cosmetics landscape, focusing on labeling requirements, the ban on CBD products, national standards for microbeads, and the burgeoning market for male cosmetics. Additionally, insights into natural and organic standards in China and South Korea reveal evolving consumer preferences and regulatory landscapes.

Cosmetic Labeling Requirements

China’s National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) has unveiled new Administrative Measures on Cosmetics Labeling, which emphasize transparency and consumer protection. A noteworthy change mandates a full listing of ingredients: those above 0.1% must be listed in descending order, while those below this threshold should be categorized as “other trace ingredients.” Companies must ensure that all labels are in standard Chinese characters, aside from specific exceptions like trade names and technical terms.

For imported cosmetics, companies can apply Chinese stickers, ensuring that safety and efficacy claims align with the original labels. These regulations take effect on May 1, 2022, giving companies a window to adapt their products, especially for registrations made before June 3, 2021.

Prohibited Claims

The NMPA has established a list of 12 prohibited claims to protect consumers from misleading information:

1. Medical-related Claims: No use of medical terminology or implications of medical effects.
2. False and Exaggerated Claims: Any misleading statements are strictly forbidden.
3. Implied Medical Effects: Visual elements suggesting medical functionalities are banned.
4. Fabricated Concepts: Unscientific terminologies are not permitted.
5. Misleading Information: Products should not disparage competitors or provide false data.
6. Unfounded Claims: Efficacy claims must be scientifically supported.
7. Unrecognized Claims: Only recognized labels and endorsements are permitted.
8. Recommendations from Unqualified Entities: Names of medical institutions cannot be misused.
9. Guarantees of Efficacy: Companies cannot guarantee safety or results.
10. Vulgar or Superstitious Language: Such content is strictly prohibited.
11. Legally Prohibited Content: Any content against existing laws will not be accepted.
12. Other Prohibitions: Compliance with all relevant laws and standards is mandatory.

Ban on CBD and Cannabis

China’s commitment to cosmetic safety has led to a total ban on CBD and related cannabis products in cosmetics. On May 28, 2021, the NMPA released an inventory prohibiting several CBD-related ingredients, including cannabidiol, cannabis seeds, and leaves. From this date, manufacturers and importers cannot utilize these ingredients in their products, reflecting a significant regulatory stance on cannabis-derived substances.

Standards for Microbeads

In line with global sustainability initiatives, China has taken steps to ban microbeads in cosmetics. The National Development and Reform Commission (NDRC) recently established standards that govern the presence of intentionally added plastic particles smaller than 5 mm in rinse-off cosmetics. This approach aims to address environmental concerns and aligns with broader efforts to ensure sustainability in personal care products.

A new standard, GB/T 40146-2021, details testing methodologies for these microbeads, thereby ensuring compliance with safety regulations and consumer protection principles.

Natural and Organic Regulations

In examining natural and organic regulations, South Korea has an established framework that distinguishes between organic and natural cosmetics, mandating clear definitions, approved ingredients, and strict business regulations. To classify as natural, cosmetics must contain over 95% natural ingredients; organic products must incorporate at least 10% organic materials.

In contrast, China is still developing its approach to organic and clean cosmetics. Although there’s a rising consumer interest in products devoid of artificial ingredients, current regulations do not allow for official organic or natural cosmetic claims. This inconsistency presents challenges for multinational companies eager to enter the market.

The Surge of Male Cosmetics

The male cosmetics market in China is witnessing unprecedented growth, with over 3,141 companies related to this sector registered in 2020 alone—indicating a shift in consumer attitudes towards personal care among men. Brands like Make Essence and DearBoyFriend are gaining traction, with some even reporting significant sales milestones within their first years.

Despite the success of domestic brands, international entries, such as L’Oreal’s House99, have struggled due to mismatched consumer expectations and product complexity. Key elements to successful male cosmetics include simplicity, practicality, and an understanding of Gen-Z purchasing behavior.

Overall, the male cosmetic market is still in its nascent stages, with estimates suggesting that less than 5% has been fully developed. As awareness and acceptance of male grooming products increase, there is vast potential for future growth in this sector.